Full-bodied, yet sumptuously complex, the 2004 Dusky
Goose Pinot noir wine has its characteristic candied
fruit and dried cherry notes, along with glorious
layers of lush black cherries and berries, and hints
of dried lavender, dried orange zest, and a high
note in both nose and flavor of intensely sweet and
concentrated dried fruit. The balance is so good,
the wine should cellar well for more than ten years.
Color: Garnet, with hints of dark purple, opaque
Nose: Very rich scent is present immediately upon
opening the bottle. Scents are primarily of candied
black cherry, black raspberry, black cherry liqueur,
and strawberry, with an undercurrent of toasted cocoa
bean. Marcus says it's like experiencing a fresh
strawberry covered with dark chocolate.
]Hints of dried lavender, dried cherry, dried herbs,
and a tiny hint of fresh earth are present in this
vibrant wine. There's a freshness to the nose that
is characteristic of the 2004 vintage.
Flavors: Layers of fresh fruit explode in the mouth.
A plush, deep core of black cherry and black raspberry
is entwined with layers of ripe red raspberry, hints
of fresh strawberry, seamlessly integrated sweet
vanilla bean, spicy plum, and dried cherry fruit
( characteristic of the vineyard).
Finish: The finish just keeps rolling out, offering
transparent layers of red and black fruit and silky
tannins with notes of toasted cocoa bean, espresso
bean, sweet vanilla, cedar, fresh tobacco, and essence
Balance: Tannins are very supple and well integrated,
there's a fresh, uplifting quality to the acidity,
and the fruit flavors reappear over and over with
ultrarich cherry, black cherry, and dried cherry
flavors, intensifying with more exposure to air.
The Vintage - 2004 compared to 2003: In a side-by-side
tasting of the 2003 and 2004 Dusky Goose over the
course of a couple days, both wines showed extraordinary
development and complexity. Both 2003 and 2004 are
powerful wines, juicy and multilayered, with the
vineyard's characteristic dried red cherry quality.
The 2003 shows more of a dark fruit profile in the
nose, flavors, and finish, with black cherry and
black raspberry dominating. The medium to full-bodied
2004 has that vibrant, uplifting freshness characteristic
of the 2004 vintage, and more red as well as black
fruit flavors. In the 2004, the layered flavors are
easier to discern- there's a sense of transparency
catalysed by refreshing acidity. More hints of lavender,
roses, herbs, and chocolate are present in the 2004.
Both wines are quite cellarworthy, with the 2004
having a slightly longer potential life.
When to Drink:The 2004 is lovely now, especially
with an hour or so of decanting. In 6 months to a
year, the wine will be much better integrated, so
patience will be rewarded. The wine's combination
of vibrant, uplifting acidity balanced with sumptuous,
lush, sweet fruit shows all the signs of aging well
for over ten years.
What to serve with it: Vitaly Paley, of Portland,
Oregon's Paley's Place, suggests Herb stuffed Rack
of Lamb or Braised Beef Brisket, just click to see
the recipes. Vitaly is the James Beard Foundation's "Best
Chef in the Pacific Northwest" for 2005 and
is in NYC this month guest-chefing at several restaurants.