J. Albin Winery Pinot noir Laurel Vineyard Reserve 06

John Albin's best Pinot noir and that is saying a lot. The 2006 J. Albin Reserve Pinot noir is made from the best part of Albin's Laurel Vineyard, a block of old vine Pommard grapes.

John may make highly regarded wine for some of Oregon and Washington's largest wineries, (Columbia, King Estate among them) but his personal vision of Pinot noir is even better.

In a hot and difficult vintage, here's a wine with optimal alcohol levels, delicious flavors, balanced acidity and tannic structure that holds the flavors together into a vibrant whole.

Scents of black cherry, black berry, milk chocolate, and black raspberry are reiterated in the flavors. One taster in our panel says: "chocolate!" and it's there, under the rich fruit and vibrant berry fruit. There's a hint of fresh nutmeg in the finish. Quite lively and fresh tasting, this wine has not peaked, and offers a very enjoyable experience now, and for several more years.

From the winery: "This wine is elegant with notes of dark cherry and violets in the aroma. Blue fruit and a pleasing earthiness balance the flavors of chocolate, barrel toast and soft tannins. A delightful taste lingers on the palate. Crafted from Pommard clone from the oldest vineyard block planted in 1981, the fruit was gently handled and cold soaked for three days followed by fermentation using Assmanhausen yeast.

Only free run wine was collected from the fermenters. The wine was aged 14 months in French oak (1/3 new oak; 50% Allier and 50% Vosges forests). Only 525 cases were produced."

Vineyard: The Laurel Vineyard is located in the northeast corner of Yamhill County, Oregon, in the proposed Chehalem Mountains AVA, overlooking the town of Laurel. The vineyard slopes south, southeast and has Laurelwood soil. The vines are planted on their own roots and trellised on a Geneva Double Curtain.

People: J. Albin Winery and Laurel Vineyard are family owned and operated. John Albin, the winemaker and a northwest native, has wanted to make wine in the northwest since he was a young boy. He has stayed focused and followed his dream. After graduating from UC Davis, he took a job with Associated Vintners (now Columbia Winery) in Washington and consulted for other Washington Wineries. At the same time, he and his wife, Lynn, searched for the ideal spot to plant their vineyard. In 1981, the Laurel Vineyard was purchased and the first block planted. A total of 17 acres are now planted. Until 2000, John sold all of his fruit to other Oregon wineries. He now holds back some of the fruit from the oldest vines to make this classic style wine.