Southern
Oregon Fruit in Northern Oregon Wine”
“Del Rio Vineyards are hot”
By
Christina Kelly
Avalon Editor/Writer
Make room Pinot Noir—Oregon
is expanding into other wine varietals with help from a relatively
new vineyard located
in Southern Oregon, land of Shakespeare festivals, white water rafting
and fruit orchards.
For those who visited Oregon wineries over the
three-day Memorial weekend, chances are you tasted wine made from the
fruit of Del Rio Vineyards, located in Gold Hill, about 15 miles north
of Medford. Fourth generation farmer Rob Wallace, who spent years farming
in the Sacramento Valley, turned in his tomato and vegetable crops for
vineyards in 1999.
“It’s been a nice change to go from
hot and windy to cool and mild,” said Wallace, who was semi-retired
before Lee Traynham, an old friend, invited Wallace to be his partner
in Del Rio Vineyards. The ranch has just less than 1,000 acres, with
185 acres of vineyards.
Wineries using
Del Rio Fruit
Domaine Serene
Sylvan Ridge/Hinman
Edgefield
Elk Cove
Cuneo
Chateau Benoit
Abacela
Valley View
Rex Hill
Ken Wright/Tyrus Evans
Bethel Heights
Erath
Bridgeview
Willakenzie
Argyle
Penner Ash
Solena
Foris
Walnut City Wineworks
Belle Vallee
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Traynham purchased the ranch in 1997, hired a developer
to get the vineyard project moving, and then realized he would need an
experienced, professional grower to make the project work. By 1999, Wallace
sold his Sacramento farm business, telling his family he was tired of
farming for increasingly smaller margins.
“I didn’t have any idea what I would
do next,” recalled Wallace. “I wasn’t that worried.
I think you would have to say it was fate when Lee contacted me about
coming to Southern Oregon. The timing was right.”
It seems the timing was right for Del Rio Vineyards.
After five years, Del Rio is selling grapes to some of the most prestigious
wineries in the state. Most of the wineries are known for Pinot Noir.
With a steady source of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and nearly
a dozen other varieties not usually associated with Oregon, winemakers
are releasing new wines.
Gino Cuneo was one of the first wineries to sign
a contract for fruit from Del Rio. Cuneo
Cellars produces Bordeaux-style blends and some Italian
varieties. With fruit from Del Rio, Cuneo is one of the first to mix
grapes from Southern Oregon with fruit from Eastern Washington, a blend
he refers to as Two Rivers (the Columbia River and the Rogue River in
Southern Oregon).
“We watched these guys at Del Rio come in
and knew they were serious, professional growers with a plan,” Cuneo
said. “They have an incredible site. It is the lowest vineyard
in the Rogue Valley, so their season is longer.
“I just felt like
we could work together and they were the horse to bet on, so to speak.”
Cuneo said he finds
it interesting that winemakers are suddenly snatching up Del Rio fruit, “when they never touched
it before.” He said it is a testament to Rob Wallace, who is producing
the highest caliber fruit he can.
“His word is gold,” Cuneo
added.
In the Beginning
Wallace grew up in the Northern California town
of Arbuckle, about 70 miles north of Sacramento. He is the fourth generation
of his family to farm the land, growing wheat, rice, tomatoes and vegetables.
He produced a commodity on a very large scale. Before selling his family
business, he would see 25 trucks per day of tomatoes leave his farm.
As the economy eroded, Wallace said he was busting
his chops from sun-up to sundown, only to see less and less profit.
“It just wasn’t worth it to me anymore,” said
Wallace.
When Traynham asked him to take over at Del Rio,
Wallace, his wife Jolee, twin (now) 11-year-old boys Jason and Clayton
and 8-year-old daughter Fallon moved to Gold Hill. Traynham runs a trucking
and almond business in California, so Wallace runs daily operations at
Del Rio.
At the time the vineyards were planted five years
ago, about a dozen or so vineyards were operating in Southern Oregon,
although none, at the time, were on the same scale as Del Rio. Five years
ago, few winemakers outside of Southern Oregon sourced fruit from that
area. Most of the grapes were sold to wineries in the Southern Oregon
area.
Del Rio sells grapes to more than 20 wineries,
with more than half in the northern portion of the state. Suddenly, winemakers
like Ken Wright, associated with production of premium Pinot Noir, began
purchasing Syrah and Cabernet Franc.
In fact, Wright’s
newest label, Tyrus
Evans (named after his sons) releases its first vintage
over Memorial Day weekend and includes a Cabernet Franc and Syrah.
Other wineries include Domaine Serene, Elk Cove,
Cuneo, Chateau Benoit, Abacela, Valley View, Rex Hill, Bethel Heights,
Erath, Bridgeview, Willakenzie, Solena, Penner Ash, Walnut City Wine
Works, Foris, Edgefield and Argyle.
Rollin Soles, winemaker for Argyle
Winery, said he wanted to support Del Rio’s efforts
and encourage Wallace to stay with the operation.
“This is a professional vineyard operation
and they are doing a great job,” Soles said. “It makes a
big difference to have that fruit available. Viva La Difference!”
Pat Dudley, marketing director (and part owner)
for Bethel
Heights Winery, said they’ve been very happy with
fruit from Del Rio.
“This is good for Oregon,” Dudley said. “It
gives us more diversity. Del Rio can grow grapes that don’t necessarily
do well in the Willamette Valley. For those who aren’t producing
entirely estate fruit, this is a very good option. He is an excellent
viticulturalist.”
Southern Oregon Fruit Versus Northern Oregon
It took Wallace some time before learning how to
farm grapes in an area vastly different from the Sacramento Valley. In
fact, he is still learning.
“It will take a lifetime to learn this—I
am competing with Mother Nature,” Wallace said. “We have
3,000 degree days (heating units) compared to the 1,700 degree days in
the Willamette Valley. We have a lot more summertime.”
The growing season for Pinot
Noir is short, Wallace said. He grows some Pinot Noir
at Del Rio, although he says it is very different from the grape
produced in the north.
Right now, Syrah is
the hottest grape in the vineyard, literally. The heat of a long summer
allows Syrah to slowly ripen. The dryer, hotter Rogue Valley produces
denser, jammier Syrah than anywhere in the state.
Del Rio is located on historic property. The area
was once a stagecoach stop and an old hotel, built originally in 1907.
The property became a pear orchard and remained so until it was sold
in 1997.
Last year, Wallace built a tasting room at the
old hotel site, renovating the building and selling wines using Del Rio
fruit. This year, he is selling his first release of wine, made for Del
Rio Vineyards by Ken Wright, and Brian Wilson, of Silvan
Ridge. Wright made Cabernet
Franc and a Claret, and Wilson made Pinot
Gris and Merlot.
The wine is sold only at the tasting room.
“It made sense for us to produce our own
wines, now that we had a tasting room,” Wallace said. “We’ve
always enjoyed wine, and we have vineyards. We selected good winemakers
to produce it for us.”
Del Rio produced about
800 cases of its own wine this year. Wallace says he isn’t certain
whether he will expand his own wine production, especially with a sluggish
economy.
He has plenty of room to expand on the ranch, but
for now, his dance with Mother Nature is giving him plenty to think about.
The rest, as he says, will come later.
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