Merlot is to the American
wine consumer in the 2000's as "burgundy" was in the 70s:
the new generic red. A "boom" in wine consumption, combined
with the consumer trend to move away from generic wine blends and into
varietals, stimulated plantings of "new," as well as "proven" wine
grapes in the Pacific NW throughout the late 90's and continues today.
Perhaps
Washington’s most famous wine
is Merlot, a red wine that can be smooth and fruity or bold and rich
with complex flavors.
In the '90s, Washington emerged as one of
the great places in the world to grow and craft Merlot. The poor soils,
long days and
cool nights are just about perfect for this round, supple red wine.
British Columbia's South Okanagan Valley, Southern Oregon's Rogue and
Umpqua Valleys and Idaho's Snake River Valley also have strong potential
for the grape.
“Top to bottom, the quality of Washington
Merlot has improved for everybody,” said Charlie Hoppes, a Washington
winemaker since 1988, referring to a tasting of Washington Merlots in
2002.
“In
this judging, the ripe flavors and black fruit really stood out. And
there was good integration of oak. We didn’t taste too many Merlots
where the oak was overly aggressive.”
Rather than bright flavors often associated with the grape, Hoppes sees
a lot more dark tones in Washington Merlot.
“That’s the way I’ve seen Merlot go since ’93
or ’94. People are letting the grapes hang longer,” he said,
adding, “People in other parts of the country get confused because
they expect it to be softer than Cab. That’s what really distinguishes
Washington Merlot.”
Hoppes spent several years as Chateau
Ste. Michelle’s red winemaker
before putting Three Rivers Winery in Walla Walla on the map in 1999.
He recently left Three Rivers to launch his own brand, Fidelitas, and
he also makes wine for three Columbia Valley boutique wineries: Cañon
de Sol, Goose Ridge and Ryan Patrick.
History of the Grape
Merlot is by far
the most widely planted grape of the entire Bordeaux region and third,
behind carignan and grenache
as the most planted black variety in France. However, it has a starring
role in only one region, historically, north of Bordeaux's Gironde River,
where it is the basis of the wines of St. Emilion and Pomerol. Château
Petrus, which has risen in consumer stature in the past three decades,
is over 90% Merlot. South of the Gironde, however, merlot usually plays
a supporting role in typical Medoc blends with cabernet sauvignon and
cabernet franc. Château Palmer in the medoc is about 60% Merlot.
Because merlot
ripens at least a week earlier than either cabernet variety, it is "vineyard insurance" where
rains are a factor at harvest. It also has slightly higher yields and
grows
better than the cabernets in damp, cool soils. The disadvantages for
growers are more susceptibility to frost in the Spring, because merlot
both buds and flowers early, and failure to mature fruit if the climate
is dry and the vineyard well-drained. The berry of merlot is relatively
thin-skinned and prone to rot.
Merlot is moderately vigorous in vine growth, but
must sometimes be reined in from setting too large of a crop by judicious
pruning, often followed weeks later by cluster thinning. Merlot on fertile
soil may produce eight tons per acre, but best fruit quality is gained
if the crop is kept at six tons per acre or less. Paradoxically, merlot
is one of the varieties most prone to coulure, a condition that causes
the immature berries to fall off soon after flowering. Careful selection
of both clone and site can avoid this problem, as coulure is more serious
in colder climates.
While its flavor profile is similar to Cabernet
Sauvignon1, Merlot tends to be slightly more herbaceous overall in both
aroma and taste. Ripeness seems critical; both under ripe and overripe
grapes lean away from fruit and towards herbaceousness. Merlot has slightly
lower natural acidity than Cabernet and generally less astringency, therefore
usually a more lush mouth-feel.
The most frequent, but not exclusive, aromas and
flavors typically found in Merlot include:
Earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon to mature in bottle,
Merlot is held in higher esteem by wine drinkers than by wine collectors.
Syrah is richer and darker, Pinot Noir lighter
and more velvety, but Merlot has become the darling red wine. Is it because
the consumer finds Merlot easy-to-drink or is it perhaps, because Merlot
is easy-to-say? I'll have a glass of Merlot, please, while I think about
it.
Jim LaMar is editor
of Professional Friends of Wine, instructs Introductory Sensory Evaluation
of Wine at California State University, Fresno, and has been drinking,
thinking, teaching and writing about wine for 30 years. He is a member
of Professional Friends of Wine.
--------------------------------------------------- NOTES
1. A recent study by an analytical chemist at the University of Bordeaux determined
that the flavor distinction between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot was possibly
due to the grapes containing different amounts of one chemical: 4-hyroxy-2,5-
dimethylfuran-3(2H)-1, or HDMF. Four times the level of HDMF in Merlot accounted
for a more pronounced "caramel" flavor, according to the panel of
expert taster subjects, who graded nine samples on the relative strength of
12 aroma categories.
Highlights of intense, ripe black fruit flavors create a complex are of mocha, black cherry, and cassis in the aroma and on the palate.
...read more
From the winery: "A luscious, intense Merlot offering generous aromas of ripe red berry and red cherry and spices. By mouth there is great depth and length of fruit, surrounded by vanilla and chocolat ...read more >>
Organic and no sulfites added. Great complex aromas with dark fruits like black cherry, raspberry, and blackberry dominating the subtle spicy undertones. Flavor complexity is enhanced with a backgroun ...read more
Raspberry fruit, herbal complexity and toasted French and American oak aromas are foremost in the nose. Flavors are dominated by direct fruit, medium acidity and a moderate tannic finish round out the ...read more
Aromas of black cherry and black current are balanced with oak, spice, nutmeg, and vanilla. Bright fruit flavors dominate in the mouth with a lively acidity and moderate but smooth tannins. ...read more
Wine Press NW says: "One of Washington's top Merlot producers shows its stuff with this bright red. Excellent fruit-to-oak balance and nice elegance through the finish. Won gold at the Grand Harvest ...read more
Black cherry, chocolate, toasted espresso bean, fresh saddle leather, chewy but well integrated tannins, just a huge, complex, world class Merlot. Made by John Abbott before he left to start his own w ...read more
Hit of the tasting, big plush Merlot. This vintage is as big as the popular 2002, but has more structure, and layers of fruit, spice, and stone. A real standout in the recent Walla Walla tasting in Po ...read more
From the winery: "Very dark purple-red color. The bouquet is of jammy blackberries, decadent ripe black sweet cherries, vanilla, barrel toast, graham. The flavors mirror that of the bouquet with addit ...read more
Wine Press Northwest says: EXCELLENT - "...hit the nail on the head with nice cherry and berry components. The merlot comes through, offering smooth, balanced flavors, with the oak giving off touches ...read more
Wine Press NW says: "Luscious cherries-in-cream flavors. This is a rich wine with good tannin structure followed up with chocolate, cedar and black fruit. Long, delicious finish." ...read more >>
Big, rich, unusually complex and layered, a step above most Merlots in quality and satisfaction.
Nose: black chery, black raspberry, hints of clove and cinnamon;
Flavors: sweet fruit with ...read more
Rick Mafit says: "Rich ripe cassis and blackberry with elegantly soft yet structured tannin ( a combination of the fruit and about 50% new oak-Seguin-Moreau Chateau Frere thin staved barrels.) Round a ...read more
Nelms Road Merlot is a second label for Woodward Canyon wWinery. Flavors of ripe cherries and other red fruits marry nicely with spice and vanilla from French and American barrels. Great value.jy ...read more
92 points Wine Advocate. Dusty malt, dried herbs and bright cherry flavors are balanced well into this smoothly-structured wine that concludes with a supple, lingering finish.
Wine Advocate ...read more
Cab? Syrah? NO. Try Merlot - offering up a nose of cherry-tobacco and cardamom scented chocolate, evolving into intense black cherries with pillow-soft tannins before pushing out a touch of plum and ...read more
From the winery: "A mouthful of wine that showcases elegant, ripe blackberry, red currant and concentrated plum flavors. Well integrated, silky tannins and sweet oak extend through the long, delicate ...read more
Colvin Vineyards' highend merlot. ...read more
Concentrated mocha, vanilla and blueberry aromas along with a very deep purple hue, a hint of oak and a lingering finish. Rich, sumptuous bright cherry and blueberry aromas and flavors, enhanced with ...read more
Deep flavors of black cherry and blackberry blend with concentrated flavors of mocha and anise. Aged for 20 months in French and American oak barrles, this Merlot has a long supple finish.
...read more
From the winery: "The color is that of a dark rose or garnet possessing light color. The presentation is profound and penetrating. Flavors and aromas are honey, raspberries, strawberries, cranberries ...read more >>
Characteristic cedary, silky black cherry fruit, with cool mint and baking spice aromas and a gripping, yet elegant mix of blueberry, blackberry and cocoa on a long lingering finish. ...read more
This rich, aromatic wine is generous on the palate with layers of delicious vanilla, ripe black cherry and deep, concentrated mocha. Lush and silky, the finish is as smooth as it is long.
85% M ...read more
Soft and velvety, redolent of black cherry, spicy, and lightly toasted oak.A lingering taste of roasted mocha adds to its sophisticated and sensuous flavor. ...read more
Red Diamond Merlot is a great value from a new winery, part of the Ste Michelle group. From the winery: "The line in the sand has been drawn, and the challenge is on - you can't beat this Merl ...read more
Intense berry, cherry, and spicy aromas proceed mouth filling fruit flavors. Soft full tannins with a long and rich finish. ...read more
A ripe, food-friendly Merlot exhibitng a broad array of flavors and aromas - toffee, violets, herb and vanilla accent ripe red and black fruit, with generous depth and length. 83% Merlot, 17% Cabernet ...read more
Complex black cherry, currant, leather and balanced oak aromas. This wine has rich black cherry, plum and currant flavors with hints of chocolate on the finish. Smooth mouthfeel, balanced acidity a
...read more
The most lush and fruit forward Merlot ever from Woodward Canyon, Rick made a particularly good wine, given the unparalleled heat in Washington in 2003. While much more forward than his usual style, h ...read more
Magnum (1500 ml)
Wine Advocate rating 94 points: "None other than Michel Rolland, of Pomerol and flying winemaker fame, is at the helm of this Long Shadows consortium winery. A firm believer in ...read more >>
A blend of vineyard sites, aged in French and American oak. Concentrated, with flavors of black cherry, plum, and exsotic spices. Gold Medal Winner, 2004 Northwest Wine Summit. Made by Charlie Hoppes ...read more
Aromas of dark chocolate, plum and herb are accompanied by smooth, rich flavors and firm structure. ...read more
Good Washington merlot, with muscle, extract and plenty of stuffing. Flavors run to the dark side - blue/black fruits, mineral, licorice and smoke.
From the winery: An abnormally cold arctic ...read more
HUGE, rich, lush, hedonistic Merlot, just an inspired choice for steaks on the grill. In the giant red wine style of Owen Roe or O-S. ...read more
From the winery: "This is a blend made from some of the very best vineyards in Washington State including Seven Hills Vineyard, Conner Lee Vineyard, Ciel du Cheval Vineyard, and Klipsun Vineyard. The ...read more
Elsewhere on the web, $35. Review: Outstanding -- A smooth-as-silk merlot with integrated raspberry and chocolate flavors followed by vanilla and toasted caramel.
From the winery: "A beautiful ...read more
From the winery: "Dark and unusually rich, this Merlot is more complex than most because of the cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon blended into it. The result shows sweet cherry, vanilla and spice, ...read more
Unusually lively Merlot, a great food wine, yet rich and full bodied. Scents are of barrel spice and black cherry fruit, sweet pie cherry, red raspberry and a hint of pie spice. Different than most
...read more
YUMMY! Stomp is a no-nonsense wine--just juicy dark fruit, deliciously toasty oak, and a remarkably long finish for a bargain wine. This one will keep your
friends, and pocketbook, happy. ...read more
Pedestal Merlot 05 opens with amazingly deep, yet elegant aromas of black cherries, black berries, fresh ground coffee, and clay. A saturated palate of layered fruit, with ripe currant and plum tak
...read more
Pedestal Merlot 05 opens with amazingly deep, yet elegant aromas of black cherries, black berries, fresh ground coffee, and clay. A saturated palate of layered fruit, with ripe currant and plum tak
...read more
Boudreaux Cellars Merlot 05 is made in a less than 200 case lot, and is extremely limited.
A monster Merlot, built for Bordeaux fans. Cherry cola, new leather, plum, shade leaf tobacco, and cin
...read more
Sineann's style is dark, aromatic with chocolate overtones and complex, silky tannins. A big, plush juicy wine.
Paul Gregutt, Seattle Times, says: "...wraps its super-ripe cherry/berry fruit i ...read more
Wine Advocate 89 points: "The 2005 Merlot is dark ruby-colored with a nose of pain grille, cassis, and red currants. This is followed by a medium-bodied wine with flavors of spicy black cherry and
Pedestal Merlot 05 opens with amazingly deep, yet elegant aromas of black cherries, black berries, fresh ground coffee, and clay. A sa
...read more >>
Merry Cellars' Stillwater Creek Merlot is intensely colored, with a bold, toasty black fruited nose that is more Cab than Merlot. Heaps of ripe black cherry are wrapped with black currant and che
...read more
85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, all from Stellar Vineyard and Cougar Hills Vineyard. This wine opens with a ripe bouquet of bing cherry, red fruits, violets, anise, and a co ...read more
GREAT VALUE Scents are of cherry perfume, with a hint of cherry blossom. Flavors are big, a perfect balance of lush, gushing fruit and quite big but pleasing tannins. There's also lots of soft ...read more
Wine Spectator 90 points! "Firm and focused. A Bright, juicy mouthful of blackberry and cherry fruit, shaded with hints of cocoa and white pepper as the finish lingers against refined tannins ...read more