*Northwest Merlot

About Northwest Merlot by Jim LaMar Merlot is to the American wine consumer in the 2000's as "burgundy" was in the 70s: the new generic red. A "boom" in wine consumption, combined with the consumer trend to move away from generic wine blends and into varietals, stimulated plantings of "new," as well as "proven" wine grapes in the Pacific NW throughout the late 90's and continues today. Perhaps Washington’s most famous wine is Merlot, a red wine that can be smooth and fruity or bold and rich with complex flavors. In the '90s, Washington emerged as one of the great places in the world to grow and craft Merlot. The poor soils, long days and cool nights are just about perfect for this round, supple red wine. British Columbia's South Okanagan Valley, Southern Oregon's Rogue and Umpqua Valleys and Idaho's Snake River Valley also have strong potential for the grape. “Top to bottom, the quality of Washington Merlot has improved for everybody,” said Charlie Hoppes, a Washington winemaker since 1988, referring to a tasting of Washington Merlots in 2002. “In this judging, the ripe flavors and black fruit really stood out. And there was good integration of oak. We didn’t taste too many Merlots where the oak was overly aggressive.” Rather than bright flavors often associated with the grape, Hoppes sees a lot more dark tones in Washington Merlot. “That’s the way I’ve seen Merlot go since ’93 or ’94. People are letting the grapes hang longer,” he said, adding, “People in other parts of the country get confused because they expect it to be softer than Cab. That’s what really distinguishes Washington Merlot.” Hoppes spent several years as Chateau Ste. Michelle’s red winemaker before putting Three Rivers Winery in Walla Walla on the map in 1999. He recently left Three Rivers to launch his own brand, Fidelitas, and he also makes wine for three Columbia Valley boutique wineries: Cañon de Sol, Goose Ridge and Ryan Patrick. History of the Grape Merlot is by far the most widely planted grape of the entire Bordeaux region and third, behind carignan and grenache as the most planted black variety in France. However, it has a starring role in only one region, historically, north of Bordeaux's Gironde River, where it is the basis of the wines of St. Emilion and Pomerol. Château Petrus, which has risen in consumer stature in the past three decades, is over 90% Merlot. South of the Gironde, however, merlot usually plays a supporting role in typical Medoc blends with cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. Château Palmer in the medoc is about 60% Merlot. Because merlot ripens at least a week earlier than either cabernet variety, it is "vineyard insurance" where rains are a factor at harvest. It also has slightly higher yields and grows better than the cabernets in damp, cool soils. The disadvantages for growers are more susceptibility to frost in the Spring, because merlot both buds and flowers early, and failure to mature fruit if the climate is dry and the vineyard well-drained. The berry of merlot is relatively thin-skinned and prone to rot. Merlot is moderately vigorous in vine growth, but must sometimes be reined in from setting too large of a crop by judicious pruning, often followed weeks later by cluster thinning. Merlot on fertile soil may produce eight tons per acre, but best fruit quality is gained if the crop is kept at six tons per acre or less. Paradoxically, merlot is one of the varieties most prone to coulure, a condition that causes the immature berries to fall off soon after flowering. Careful selection of both clone and site can avoid this problem, as coulure is more serious in colder climates. While its flavor profile is similar to Cabernet Sauvignon1, Merlot tends to be slightly more herbaceous overall in both aroma and taste. Ripeness seems critical; both under ripe and overripe grapes lean away from fruit and towards herbaceousness. Merlot has slightly lower natural acidity than Cabernet and generally less astringency, therefore usually a more lush mouth-feel. The most frequent, but not exclusive, aromas and flavors typically found in Merlot include: Typical Merlot Smell and/or Flavor Descriptors Varietal Aromas/Flavors: Processing Bouquets/Flavors: Fruit: currant, black cherry, plum Oak (light): vanilla, coconut, sweet wood Floral: violet, rose Oak (heavy): oak, smoke, toast, tar Spice: caramel, clove, bay leaf, green peppercorn Bottle Age: truffle, mushroom, earth, coffee,leather, cedar, cigar box Herbal: bell pepper, green olive . Earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon to mature in bottle, Merlot is held in higher esteem by wine drinkers than by wine collectors. Syrah is richer and darker, Pinot Noir lighter and more velvety, but Merlot has become the darling red wine. Is it because the consumer finds Merlot easy-to-drink or is it perhaps, because Merlot is easy-to-say? I'll have a glass of Merlot, please, while I think about it. Jim LaMar is editor of Professional Friends of Wine, instructs Introductory Sensory Evaluation of Wine at California State University, Fresno, and has been drinking, thinking, teaching and writing about wine for 30 years. He is a member of Professional Friends of Wine. --------------------------------------------------- NOTES 1. A recent study by an analytical chemist at the University of Bordeaux determined that the flavor distinction between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot was possibly due to the grapes containing different amounts of one chemical: 4-hyroxy-2,5- dimethylfuran-3(2H)-1, or HDMF. Four times the level of HDMF in Merlot accounted for a more pronounced "caramel" flavor, according to the panel of expert taster subjects, who graded nine samples on the relative strength of 12 aroma categories.