About Zinfandel
by Jim LaMar
Zinfandel was for many years somewhat
of a mystery grape, as far as its origins are concerned. Recent research
in Croatia and at the University of California at Davis, using DNA profiling,
has proved Zinfandel is a clone of the Croatian variety Crljenak. While
it had been theorized that Zinfandel's genetic twin, the Italian Primitivo,
was the source, this grape also originally mutated from Crljenak. Further
research may indicate the very first plantings migrated from Albania or
Greece.
In April, 2002, the TTB announced they are
considering ruling Zinfandel and Primitivo synonymous for use on wine
labels. Producers of California
Zinfandel will probably object, anticipating that Italian producers with
a bountiful supply would then be able to undercut the market with inexpensive
Primitivo wine labeled "Zinfandel".
Zinfandel came to the United States in 1820, when New York nurseryman
George Gibbs carried back various cuttings from the Imperial Austrian
plant species collection. Over the next two decades, Zinfandel became
a popular table grape in the Northeast U.S. Although there are some commercial
claims that Agoston Harazsthy brought Zinfandel to California, records
show that a Massachusetts nurseryman introduced it here. In either case,
Zinfandel is now considered indigenous to California, where it has thrived
since the mid-1850's.
Nearly as versatile as Chardonnay in the
number of different styles of wine produced from it, it has only achieved
widespread popularity
in America since 1980, as a pink, slightly sweet wine. In fact, this
popularity has so outstripped all other forms, that many fans think that
there is actually a grape called "White Zinfandel" (there isn't)!
Zinfandel as a red wine can be made light
and fruity, much like French Beaujolais, or lively, complex and age
worthy, like Cabernet or claret.
It can also be made into big, ripe, high alcohol style wines that resemble
Port. Zinfandel is also a component of most California "jug" wines,
since it is the most widely planted red wine grape.
This vineyard proliferation can be attributed to zinfandel's hardy nature.
Adaptable to a wide range of soils and climates, its vines tend to be
vigorous and productive. Zinfandel also has a frequent tendency to set
a second crop.
The clusters are compact and full and the berry stems (peduncles) somewhat
short. These factors make Zinfandel somewhat susceptible to bunch rot
and some types of mildew. Water management is particularly critical to
raising Zinfandel. Under stress from lack of moisture, it is prone to
raisining. It also ripens more unevenly than most other varieties and
it is not uncommon for green and raisined berries to occur within the
same cluster. This tendency can be aggravated by poorly-timed irrigation.
Because of its vigor, generosity and resistance
to vine disease, many zinfandel vineyards exist that are 75 to 100
or more years old. Zinfandel
aficionados believe these "old vines" produce the best wines,
because the older vineyards set a smaller crop and the grapes tend to
ripen more evenly.
At its best, Zinfandel (red) has a very fruity,
raspberry-like aroma and flavor and a "jammy" quality. The most common aroma and
flavor descriptors used with Zinfandel are: >>>
Zinfandel is one red varietal that is probably
best enjoyed in its youth, within three to five years of the vintage.
With more bottle age than
this, the luscious fruit that distinguishes Zinfandel drops markedly
and the wine can show a pronounced "hot" taste of higher alcohol
levels and become more neutrally vinous. It is sometimes hard even for
experienced tasters to pick an older Zinfandel from among similar-aged
Cabernet Sauvignon, for instance (not that there's anything wrong with
that).
When paired with outdoor-grilled steaks or chops or meat that has been
stewed with or stuffed with fruit, Zinfandel becomes a prime motivation
for people to become wine-lovers. |