"
Dobbes Takes Over ‘ Diamond-in-the-Rough’
to Make Polished Gems”
By Christina Kelly
Avalon Editor/Writer Pascal Winery and Vineyard is not exactly
a household name and doesn’t
have much name familiarity outside of Southern Oregon. All that is about to change, if winemaker Joe Dobbes has his way. Dobbes is affectionately known as the James
Brown (“hardest working
man in showbiz”) equivalent in the wine industry. After 17 years
of working for large (Willamette Valley Vineyards) and small wineries
(Torii Mor), Dobbes created his own label, Dobbes Family Estate, and
took over the helm of Pascal Winery and Vineyard in Southern Oregon near
Ashland. When he first came upon Pascal Winery, Dobbes
said it was “one
of the most beautifully designed and situated wineries in the state,” with
unparalleled views of the Rogue Valley and majestic Siskiyou Mountains.
He was named winemaker in September of 2002, inheriting some of the finest
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and a Bordeaux blend called “Quartet.” The
winery also produces small quantities of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Syrah
and Pinot Noir. With the economy tighter than a drum, Pascal
wines are a great value, retailing between $18 and $26. They provide
a taste of the Southern Oregon “terroir” and
showcase the great fruit grown in one of Oregon’s most underrated
appellations. “Southern Oregon is really an exciting, emerging wine region,” said
Dobbes. “The wines at Pascal are high quality and well priced.
They show the potential of this region.” Dobbes inherited the 2000 wines, which include a Bordeaux-style blend
called Quartet (44 percent Cabernet Franc, 34 percent Cabernet Sauvignon,
13 percent Merlot and 9 percent Malbec). The wine has layers and layers
of fruit with well-integrated oak spices and a splash of pepper. They also offer a Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris
and small amounts of Syrah and Pinot Noir. The 2001 Syrah and Pinot Noir
are already released. With other 2001 (reds) and 2002 releases this year,
the wine is a bargain and certain to sell out before the next vintage
is released. When Dobbes arrived at Pascal, he also inherited
the 2001 wine in barrels. After tasting, Dobbes said he fattened up
what was in the barrels and
gave it more of his signature style, promising that the 2001 wines, released
this summer and fall, would be “more supple and richer in the mouth.” “The genetics were already there,” Dobbes said. “I
put on the finishing touches and brought it closer to the style I prefer.
I think they will be better than ever.” In fact, Dobbes said the 2002 Pinot Gris is the best he has ever made.
He expects to release the wine in mid-summer. Pascal Switches Roles Working with Southern Oregon vineyards, Dobbes will switch Pascal to
Italian varietals such as Sangiovese and Dolchetto beginning with his
2003 wines (available in 2004). He hopes to include a Super Tuscan blend.
Pascal will continue to make Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, but the other
wines will be discontinued. It its place, Dobbes introduces Dobbes Family
Estate Wines. To do this, Dobbes brought up his sister Renee Dobbes
and her fiancé Luis
Larcina to help run Pascal and Dobbes Family Estate. Renee is the new
estate manager. Renee Dobbes said she and Larcina are in beginning discussions with
Pascal owners to purchase the 13-acre estate. “We’re talking with the owners and having the site appraised,” said
Renee. “We want to include a bed and breakfast with the winery,
but still need to work with the county on that one. Right now, we’re
concentrating on the new winery building and the wines. The rest will
come. “It is a dream to come back to Oregon
and work with my brother.” Dobbes Family Estate will offer four Pinot
Noir releases in the coming year: a cuvee, Skipper’s Cuvee (named after Joe’s
daughter), Griffin Cuvee (named after his son) and a Grand Assemblage
(a blend of
all the Pinot Noir). He expects his first Pinot Noir to be released September
15. In addition, Dobbes will offer four single-vineyard bottlings of Syrah,
sourcing all the fruit from Southern Oregon. Through the winery and wine
club, (and a limited release elsewhere) Dobbes will offer a six-pack
of Syrah, including a Syrah and Viognier (8 percent) blend and an Assemblage
Cuvee, which will blend all of the Syrah together. As if That is Not Enough With his fingers in so many pies, Dobbes also manages to source Pinot
Gris grapes from Oregon, shipped it to the Napa Valley and oversea the
production of 22,000 cases of Pinot Gregio for Villa San Maurice. He
makes about four or five trips per year to Napa to consult with the winemaker. After leaving Willamette Valley Vineyards last year, Dobbes continued
as consulting winemaker for Torii Mor, his third year at the winery. But the piece d’ resistance for Dobbes
will be an agreement between himself and Mike Sweeney, owner of Cherry
Hill Vineyards and Winery in
the Eola Hills near Salem, allowing Dobbes to lease the new winery he
helped design on 52 acres of a former Cherry orchard. The agreement would have Dobbes making wine for Sweeney under the Cherry
Hill label, and Dobbes producing the Dobbes Family Estate and Pascal
wines. In addition, Dobbes would provide custom winemaking for those
interested in a private label. “Cherry Hill would be the central hub of everything,” Dobbes
said. “It pulls everything together, centralizing everything I’m
working on, plus other projects. It would be my dream come true.” Dobbes would like to purchase the property, but for now, he is content
to negotiate a lease and travel less in order to spend time with his
two children, who live in Salem. If all goes according to Joe’s plan, we should hear him singing
his new anthem, “I feel good...like I knew I would…I feel
good…like I knew I would now.”
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