The Valley Cafe
Justin Sanders and Dan Woodall share the
kitchen at Ellensburg's Valley Cafe, but neither sees himself in a career
as a chef after each graduates from Central Washington University, only
a few blocks away.
"They are only here for the duration of their education," said
owner Gregory Beach. "It's a blessing and curse. This is the most
expertise we've had in the kitchen."
Woodall, 26, is on course to leave CWU this fall with a degree in mechanical
engineering. Fortunately for diners, Sanders, also 26, figures he has
three years to go for his computer science degree.
"There's a lot more to it than money, but the hours are so weird
in this business," said Sanders, who enjoys hiking and camping. "I've
been cooking for so long that when I went to work for a software company
and worked regular hours, that was kind of weird, too."
Woodall, a skateboarder and snowboarder who
has been at the Valley Cafe for two years, said, "I've pretty
much decided I'm going to go into engineering after school. But for
a student who needs a job, this is
a great place to work."
Both graduated from rival Bellevue-area high
schools in 1991, Sanders from Redmond and Woodall from Newport. Both
spent several years at various
Puget Sound eateries before enrolling at CWU. Although Sanders' interest
in cooking began "like a lot of us - washing dishes when I was 15," he's
developed a classic French base. He received four months of formal training
in Grenoble, France, as well as a degree from South Seattle Community
College's culinary school.
The dedication shown by Sanders and Woodall, and the cuisine they create
to put themselves through college, reaffirms Beach's idea that chefs
are unsung stars.
"In this country, we take for granted people who combine ingredients
that pair food and wine together," Beach said. "In France,
they are celebrities, somebody with that talent is held in high esteem.
It is an art form."
As Match Makers, Beach, Sanders and Woodall set out to create a dish
for McCrea Cellars' 1998 viognier that features food indigenous to the
Northwest. They hit home: steamed mussels with apple curry and mango
salsa served with saffron rice.
"It's amazing how few places serve mussels, but not a lot of restaurants
want to deal with it," Beach said. "You have to bring it in
right, hold it right and cook it right."
Wine Press Northwest supplied the mussels,
three pounds of which cost $10 and netted about 60 of the mollusks.
We sat down with the Valley
Cafe threesome and talked about the project, casually dining on their
creation as a group appetizer. However, 15 mussels a person makes this
dish an entrée, and it's easy to lose count until you take inventory
of the emptied shells on your plate.
When Woodall first sampled the McCrea viognier, "The
first thing I thought of was star fruit because the wine has such nice
fruit characteristics.
Then, we thought of green apples and mangoes."
The subtle fruits and lack of oak often found in a chardonnay led the
Valley Cafe trio away from other types of seafood.
"Mussels are probably the perfect seafood," Sanders said. "Anything
else is overpowering. We tried mahi-mahi, but it was too much."
The apple curry addresses the fruit of the wine, while the curry helps
clean the palate. The same goes for the mango salsa, where the key ingredient
is sambal - an Indonesian spice with some jazz, but one that doesn't
linger on the tongue.
"It took away a lot of the fruit in the wine if it got too hot," Woodall
said. "It's very easy to make the dish hotter, though. You could
add a little more of the Thai curry paste (to the apple curry.)"
Sanders quickly added, "It beats up
the mussels pretty badly, though."
Valley Cafe, 105 W. 3rd, Ellensburg, Wash. 509-925-3050. Open 11 a.m.-9
p.m. daily. Deli/wine shop open 9 a.m.-3 p.m. daily.
|