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Sineann is
a small producer of highly sought after wine in Yamhill County, Oregon.
Winemaker Peter Rosback sources his fruit from some
of the best vineyards in the region; Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris from
the Willamette Valley and the Hood River Valley, Cabernet, Merlot and
Zinfandel from the Columbia Valley, Gewurztraminer from the Willamette
Valley and the Columbia Gorge. Crop levels are kept very low, one to
three tons per acre.
The Vineyards of Sineann's Wines
by Michael Sherwood
September 2006
Able Vineyard
Able is a very small vineyard of organically
grown Pinot noir in the emerging Hood River
Valley. The
Columbia Gorge is a unique AVA where marine
air meets desert air over Mt. Hood. Planted
in 2000, there are 3 acres of established Pommard
and Dijon clone Pinot Noir on a [VSP] vertical
shoot positioning trellis system. The
vineyard is on a steep, south facing slope
where the soil is mostly sandy loam. The
elevation is relatively low for the Hood River
Valley, only 1000 feet in elevation and with
the predominance of early ripening Dijon clones
[777,113 & 115]. There will be years
that warmer lower elevation with the quick
to ripen fruit will produce spectacular small
lots of wine. Sineann sampled some of
John Able’s fruit in 2004, but it wasn’t
until 2005 that any quantity was brought in. The
flavors were delicate and unique enough to
receive a single vineyard designation in 2005.
Whistling Ridge
Whistling
Ridge Vineyards are located west of Newburg,
Oregon in Yamhill County. In 1988 the 10 of
the 20 acres on this farm were cleared of walnut
and fir trees to make way for planting grape
vines. In 1999 an additional 30 acres were
purchased one mile north along Ribbon Ridge
right above Beaux Frères and Patricia
Green Cellars. The vines thrive on Willakenzie
silty clay loam, running north to south, in
an altitude of 450 ft.. A Double Guyot training
system with a spacing of 5 by 7 feet is used.
All fruit is ‘dry farmed’ meaning
no irrigation is used at all. The Pinot
noir made from this site is dense, wild, brambly
and full of flavor. With neighbors like
Breaux Frères, Patty Green and Brick
House, this vineyard site is in good company.
In 1989 a block of Chardonnay 108 clone was
planted. In 1990 first block of Pinot Noir
plants were put into the ground, a variety
of Waidensville and Pomard clones. The owners
are replanting the original 1989 block with
Pinot Noir and 96 and 76 Dijon clone Chardonnay.
More than 15 acres of vines are now planted
including Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot
Gris. For experimentation and fun, the owners
maintain in small quantities some Cabernet
Sauvignon, Riesling, Muscat, Schonburger, Gewurztraminer,
and Pinot Blanc. Whistling Ridge
grapes are purchased by Sineann, Patricia Green
Cellars, Belle Pente and Natalie's Estate Winery.
Lachini Vineyard
Lachini
Vineyard's forty-five acres are located near
Newberg, Oregon in the Chehalem Mountain AVA.
The gently sloping vineyard is comprised of
Willakenzie soils-ranging from 18 to 48 inches
in depth at an elevation of 350 – 400
feet. The shallow, fine silt loam over sedimentary
rock has lower water capacity due to its sandy
consistency and thus forces the vines to compete
and develop deep root systems. The emerging
terror of these dark-brown to yellowish-brown
soils reveal Pinot noir wines with strong earthy
notes, chocolate, and a delicate flavor of
anise and spice.
The property was
purchased in 1998 and planted the first five
acres with Pommard clone Pinot noir in June
of 1999. In the following growing seasons,
Lachini planted additional blocks that now
entail just over 20 acres of planted Pinot
noir. Most recent plantings include Dijon
and Wadenswil clones. Lachini Vineyard currently
has fifteen acres bearing fruit. Over the next
five years, the entire vineyard will come into
full production, with maximum planting to 30
acres on this site. Vineyard spacing is 4'
X 6" or roughly 1700 vines per acre, which
forces the vines to compete and low cropping
keeps the flavors concentrated to premium quality
wines.
Lachini Vineyards
are hand-farmed using sustainable agriculture
and organic practices prescribed by Oregon
LIVE. Low Input Viticulture and Enology,
Inc. program (LIVE, Inc.) is a program providing
vineyards and wineries official recognition
for sustainable agricultural practices that
are modeled after international standards such
as the practice of botanical diversity in the
cover crop and management practices that favor
beneficial insects.
Wyeast Vineyard
The
Wyeast vineyard high up in the Hood River Valley
was planted in 1989 with 10 acres of Pinot
gris and in 1990, 8 acres of Pinot noir. The
south and southwest facing slopes are covered
with deep red volcanic soil, and like many
vineyards today, are dry farmed allowing the
vintage and weather to really show through. The
high elevation vineyard ranges from 1600 feet
at the base to 1800 feet at the top of the
vineyard and allows form some nice acids to
form in support of the terrific structure and
dense lush flavors that come out of this vineyard. Wyeast
is one of three vineyards in the Columbia Gorge
that Sineann receives Pinot noir from and also
provides some of their best Pinot gris as well. Winemaker
Rosback thinks that the Hood River Valley can
be one of the best places in Oregon to grow
Pinot noir. Anyone who tries the Wyeast
Pinot noir from Sineann might well agree.
Maresh Vineyard
The
Maresh Vineyard is situated high in the Dundee
Hills on a beautiful south-facing slope. Planted
in 1970 by Jim and Loie Maresh, this is the
5th oldest vineyard in Oregon, and the oldest
on Worden Hill Rd. in the new Dundee Hills
AVA. Few Oregon winemakers ever get to
work with truly “old vines” Pinot
noir. Peter Rosback has known the Maresh
family for years and was lucky enough to access
a mix of older Pommard and newer Dijon 115
fruit in 2005.
The Pommard clone
often has the most lush mouth feel, and is
approachable early on. The fruit in these
wines is always big, black cherry, with the
tannins balanced by lush fruit. The Wadenswil
clone is always very spicy and floral, but
has more elegance and focus than the Pommard;
it often adds the core of structure and brightness
to the blend. Also exciting is the fruit from
the Dijon Clone 115, with full, juicy aromas
of black berry and cherry. These clonal
components yield a complete wine that is lush
and rich upfront, and nicely structured in
the mid-mouth, with a chewy tannin finish.
Most importantly, even
the newest plantings of Pinot noir at this
site, carry the qualities that are so distinctive
from this vineyard. Each block of Maresh Pinot
noir contributes a special and unique flavor
to the wine. The overall component that seems
to be consistent throughout the vineyard is
a green peppercorn note when the wine is very
young. Over the course of ten months of barrel
aging, this aroma integrates, and develops
a rich, oily sage note, distinctive only to
Maresh.
Covey Ridge Vineyard
Located
on a ridge above Banks, Oregon this is the
most northern spot in the Willamette Valley
from which Sineann acquires Pinot noir. The
six and a half acre vineyard is mostly Dijon
clone Pinot noir with a bit of Pinot gris. Planted
in 1995, another eight acres will be planted
in the fall of 2006. The vineyard is
a Jory type clay under 16 inch of loam. It
sits at 600 feet elevation. Good
Northwesterly winds keep the site free of frost
and still air. The entire site
is dry farmed which brings out the mirror of
the weather that year, in the fruit.
Fellow winemaker
Dick Ferraro recommended this vineyard back
in the 90’s, so Rosback
picked up a small quantity of Pinot gris grape
and included them in a line up along with a
few other test batch vineyards. The
Covey Ridge stood out as an excellent vineyard. 1999
was the first Pinot gris vintage for Sineann
from Covey Ridge and it’s been in the
array along with several other single vineyard
Pinot gris ever since.
In 2000, Rosback
decided to try the Pinot noir from the site. What resulted was
a spicy Pinot noir with layers of blackberry,
cherry and a touch of anise. Small quantities
of the Pinot noir are made every year and it
sells out quickly.
Phelps Creek
Vineyard
The
Columbia Gorge AVA is really hitting its stride
and grower Bob Morus’ vineyard is among
the best in the Hood River Valley. The cool
marine weather from the Oregon coast and valley
meets the warm desert air over the Hood River
valley making for a unique cool weather climate
perfect for apples, pears and grapes. Bob’s
vineyard is on the west side of the valley
that in years past, the pear growers avoided
due to the poor soils. Those soils happened
to be just perfect for growing grapes. Seventy
five feet of volcanic loam, called Oak Grove
Loam make up the majority of the soil, mixed
in with a fair amount of clay. Not a
rock in sight though.
Fifteen of the
60 acres were planted in 1990 with a combination
of Pommard and Dijon clone Pinot noir and
four acres of Chardonnay. An
underlying minerality is a hallmark of this
vineyard in both Pinot noir and Chardonnay. Rosback
has Morus crop Sineann’s Pinot noir blocks
to a ton and a half per acre, which results
in a concentrated wine with notes of blue fruit,
dark cherry and a coco/tobacco notes. The
Chardonnay, cropped to two tons per acre, when
fermented in stainless steel has a bright Myers
lemon quality to it and when oaked, tropical
pineapple notes although Rosback has almost
completely forsaken barrel aged Chardonnay
in favor of 100% stainless steel renditions. Recently
fifteen acres have been leased in adjoining
land taking the vineyard to 30 planted acres.
When the Willamette
Valley was hammered with hot weather in 2003
or wet weather in 2005, the Hood River Valley
and the Columbia Gorge AVA continued to produce
stellar and consistent fruit that rivals
the Willamette Valley. Keep
an eye on this AVA as the wines coming out
of this area will only continue to improve.
Resonance Vineyard
The
vineyard is located in Oregon's northern Willamette
Valley on a south-facing hillside in Yamhill
County, just west of Carlton. The vineyard
is in the new Yamhill-Carlton District AVA. The
Resonance Vineyard sits on a convex portion
of a low, west-east oriented ridge emerging
out of the Coast Range. The ridge is hook-shaped,
wrapping around to the east. The much higher
High Heaven Ridge protects the property from
the south. Panther Creek flows through the
valley created between High Heaven and Resonance.
The Coast Range rises immediately to the west
of the property, creating a formidable weather
barrier. As a result, Resonance is protected
from inclement weather and wind on all sides,
making it a particularly warm, dry site.
Soils are primarily Willakenzie and Yamhill,
but there are areas with virtually no top soil
that can only be labeled as shale rock land.
The Willakenzie and exposed shale are both
old sedimentary deposits that begin at the
bottom of the slope. The Yamhill is an ancient,
submarine basaltic soil (much older than the
more common, basalt-derived Jory and Nekia
soils in the Dundee Hills). The Yamhill soil
is found near the top of the slope and much
of the crown is exposed, broken basalt bedrock.
The wet winters coupled with soils of sufficient
water-holding capacity allow dry farming of
vines. And the warm summers provide more than
adequate heat to fully ripen the fruit. The
growing season is very long (over 210 days)
and dry which keeps disease and insect pressures
at a minimum.
The entire vineyard is on a vertical, upright,
shoot-positioned trellis (commonly called a
VSP). Spacing on the oldest vines is 8 feet
between rows and 6 feet between vines, leaving
908 vines per acre. The most recent plantings
are set at 7.5 feet between rows and 5 feet
between plants or 1162 vines per acre and 7.5
feet by 4 feet or 1452 vines per acre. All
vines are cane pruned with very low head heights
of 18-24." The trellis is 6.5 feet high
allowing the canopy to grow as high as 7.5
feet before being hedged (which occurs only
once). This allows for a large leaf area to
accommodate adequate ripening even in cool
vintages.
The coarse-grained, ancient marine sediments
native to the area are the oldest soils in
the valley. These soils drain quickly establishing
a natural deficit-irrigation effect. Thus,
the vines stop vegetative growth earlier here
than elsewhere, leading to more complete ripening,
even in cooler growing seasons. This allows
Pinot noir to develop deep ruby colors and
broad, silky tannins. The mouth-filling wines
exude powerful fruit aromas of raspberry, blackberry
and black cherries complexed by minerality
reminiscent of pipe tobacco, espresso, clove
and dark chocolate and accented by scents of
rose, violet, lavender and sweet wood smoke.
These are alluring, complex, supple gems of
Pinot noir to sip and savor.
The vineyard consists of 4 acres of Pommard
Pinot noir, 2.5 acres of Pommard Pinot noir
(grafted from Muller-Thurgau in 2000) and 1.5
acres of Gewurztraminer all originally planted
in 1981, plus 3.5 acres of Wadensvil Pinot
noir planted in 1987 and 2 acres of 777 Pinot
noir (grafted from Pinot Gris) planted in 1995.
An additional 6.5 acres of Pinot noir (evenly
split between Wadensvil and Pommard clones)
was planted in the spring of 2006.
Until June of 2003, Resonance was named Reed & Reynolds
Vineyard. Reed is owner Kevin Chambers middle
name, and has been the middle name of the first-born
male of his family for several generations.
Reynolds is Carla Chambers’ maiden name.
The Chambers felt the two names offered a pleasant
and memorable alliteration, as well as designated
their partnership and teamwork that created
the vineyard. Nevertheless, after a protracted
and expensive trademark battle with a California
winery, the Chambers chose to change the name
to Resonance.
Virtually all the
vines are own-rooted. Of course, this leaves
them at risk to phylloxera. But Biodynamic
practices, a strong nutritional program and
commitment to a diverse, healthy microbial
community in the soil significantly mitigates
the disease risk. The Chambers believe that
plants should be grown on their own root
systems rather than be grafted to other species'
roots. They feel this leads to healthier plants,
better drought tolerance and greater wine quality.
A few grafted vines have been planted for experimental
purposes, but the intent is to sustain an own-rooted
vineyard. At 25 years of age in the oldest
blocks, the vines are now yielding profoundly
complex wines. It is the Chambers' intent to
maintain this "old vine character" in
the wines for as long as possible.
Year in and year
out, the Resonance vineyard supplies the
fruit for Sineann’s best
Pinot noir. In 2003, Wine Spectator gave
the Sineann Resonance Pinot noir 94 points. In
2004, the Pommard clone barrels supplied the
fruit for Sineann’s first French Laundry
Cuvee. For 2005, this wine is yet another
stunning example of the flavors and complexity
that winemaker Rosback can coax out of a well
kept vineyard.
Schindler Vineyard
The
Schindler Vineyard is in the Eloa Hills area
of Oregon’s
Willamette Valley and has just recently converted
to Biodynamic practices, which are akin to
going organic with a bit of witchcraft thrown
in for good measure. There are 14 acres
of Pinot noir and 6 acres of Chardonnay. The
vines are now 14 years old and this is the
third year that Sineann has received fruit
from this vineyard. The first year Schindler
fruit went into the Oregon blend. 2004
was the first single vineyard designate and
really showed its stuff. This year,
select fruit from the Schindler Vineyard was
bottled privately for the French Laundry, so
you know the vineyard has something special
going on. Grape grower and practicing
doctor Robert Schindler thinks Oregon Pinot
noir is setting a new paradigm for the grape
and can show Burgundy a thing or two about
how this noble grape shines in New World cool
climates.
The Pines Vineyard
This vineyard,
4 miles south of The Dalles, is where Sineann
gets their fabulous Zinfandel grapes. In
1983 Lonnie Wright returned from orchard work
in Libya and stumbled across 8 acres of Zinfandel
planted in the early 1900’s. With
this long neglected vineyard he started his
vineyard management company and planted grapes
for Terry McDuffee, Herald Haake and others
to where he now has 20 acres of his own planted
with Zinfandel, Syrah and Merlot.
In 1987 Wright
planted 5 acres of Zinfandel using cuttings
off the original Old Vine Zinfandel. Now
those grapes are now 19 years old and are used
by Sineann to make their ‘Z’ young
vine Zinfandel. This hard scrabble vineyard
is filled with Columbia Valley loam on a steep
hillside with a 26% grade. The old vine
Zinfandel roots have drilled deep into the
ancient sandstone and basalt providing minerality
and complexity to the wine made from these
grapes. The 600 foot elevation, hot days
and cool nights bring out the best of this
warm weather grape variety defying the stereotype
that good Zinfandel can only be made in California.
Today, Lonnie Wright
manages over 175 acres of grapes for over
15 vineyards in the Hood River and Dalles
area. His pride and
joy remains his old vine Zinfandel grapes,
the oldest producing vineyard in the Pacific
Northwest. Peter Rosback has worked
with these grapes for 14 years now and makes
one of the most highly sought after cult wines
around.
Winemaking at Sineann
Winemaking at Sineann is well recognized as meticulous.
All fruit is hand sorted, delicately destemmed, punched down by hand,
gently pressed and gravity racked. The wines are aged in new and one
year old French oak.

Peter Rosback
Sineann owner and winemaker Rosback was bitten
by the urge to produce wine in the mid 1990's. He worked harvest at Elk
Cove and other wineries, and decided to start his own winery after meeting
fellow winelover David O'Reilly. With Irish heritage and love of good
wine in common, the two men struck a partnership and created Sineann.
"David has a great palate and is one of the
best marketing people in the state," Rosback said. "We're a
good team. Each of us brings talents to the table to produce the best
wine we can. Of course, it starts with great fruit, and that also has
to be the best we can get."
In addition to Sineann, Rosback also makes wines
for Medici, where the owners allow Sineann to be produced. He also consults
with O'Reilly on Owen Roe and O'Reilly Cellars.
"Peter brings an irrepressible passion to
everything he does," O'Reilly said. "I think that's why we
are such good partners."
O'Reilly and Rosback left Elk Cove in 1998 to produce
wines in relatively small quantities. While Sineann is produced at Medici,
O'Reilly has little niches and spots for producing Owen Roe and O'Reilly
Cellars. He spends a great deal of time on the road, from spot to spot,
overseeing production. He and Rosback purchase grapes from the Willamette
Valley to Hood River to Walla Walla and Columbia valleys in Washington
state.
The good news comes in the form of a converted
barn. Next year, he will have his own facility for Owen Roe and O'Reilly
Cellars. Sineann will continue production at Medici for the time being.
"I will be happy to have one location to produce
my wines," he added.
Just about everything produced under the Sineann
label is excellent and a value compared to comparable Californian wine.
Zinfandel grapes come from a 100-year-old vineyard in Washington. Pinot
Noir grapes come from the best growers in Oregon.
Both Rosback severely limits yields to produce
such intense wine. It keeps quantities low, but the winemaker is not
interested in expanding production.

Medici Vineyard
Sineann produces single vineyard, highly crafted
Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. White wines include
Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris.
The Yamhill County Winery Association has
this to say about Sineann:
"Sineann is passionate about producing the
most intense, flavorful wines from a handful of great vineyards. Sineann
sources Zinfandel from the only 100 year-old vineyard in the Northwest,
Cabernet Sauvignon from one of Washington’s oldest vineyards and
Pinot noir and Pinot gris from a pair of Yamhill County’s best
Pinot vineyards as well as some other gems. Crop sizes are miniscule;
the wines handcrafted. Good luck finding any Sineann wines!"
Wine Today had this to say:
"Sineann was founded in 1994 by David O'Reilly
and Peter Rosback, two individuals fascinated by the potential that well-managed
vineyards in the Columbia Valley offer. Working closely with growers,
they severely limit yields to maximize the intensity of the fruit they
harvest. The Old Vine Zinfandel is a fine wine for medium aging. It has
striking berry flavours when young and softens with three years of bottle
age. The Sineann Cabernet Sauvignon comes from a single vineyard known
as Block One, among the oldest in the Columbia Valley, and is a full-bodied,
sturdy, age-worthy red."
Read
more about
Sineann and
Peter Rosback

Peter Rosback,
Sineann Winemaker
Read about
Owen Roe and
David O'Reilly
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