*Northwest Syrah
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Varietal Aromas/Flavors: |
Processing Bouquets/Flavors: |
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Fruit: black currant, blackberry |
Terroir: musk, civet, truffle, earth |
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Floral: grass |
Oak (light): vanilla, coconut, sweet wood |
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Spice: black pepper, licorice, clove, thyme, bay leaf |
Oak (heavy): oak, smoke, toast, tar |
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Herbal: sandalwood, cedar |
Bottle Age: cedar, cigar box, earth, leather |
Syrah
Seduction:
NW wineries
producing this spicy wine
to high acclaim
By Christina Kelly
Avalon Editor/Writer
Do you like your Syrah bright, jammy and young,
or big, tannic and oaky with a few years in the bottle?
Winemakers in the Northwest produce both styles, as Syrah has become one of
the hottest grapes to come out of Eastern Washington and Southern Oregon. Some
wine experts predict the scrumptious wine will eventually surpass Merlot in
popularity in the next few years.
Despite growing popularity, Syrah confuses
some consumers because it wears many names
throughout the world. The grape is originally
thought to have come from Persia in the 13th
Century, where it was later planted in France’s
Rhone Valley.
Today, Syrah dominates the Northern Rhone
in the wines of Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage,
Cornas and Saint-Joseph. It’s also important
in Southern Rhone where it is often blended with
Grenache and other grapes in Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
The generic Cotes-du-Rhone, a red, everyday table
wine in France, is predominantly made from Syrah.
The flavors are somewhat smoky, spicy and filled
with black fruits.
In the past two decades, a Syrah explosion occurred in Australia, where the
grape is known as Shiraz. It is the most commonly planted grape Down Under.
Shiraz produced in Australia is generally leaner than those produced in France,
with softer tannins and more leather and blackberry flavors.
In the U.S., California is leading Syrah
push, jumping from 139 acres planted in 1988
to 7,200 acres in 1998. Washington’s
Syrah has hit the radar and Oregon is just
peeking out over its vineyards in the southern
part of the state.
Washington
State Syrah
Producers in Washington include McCrea Cellars (see story), Columbia Winery,
Powers, Reininger, Chateau Ste. Michelle, Hogue, Columbia Crest, Seven Hills,
Snoqualmie, Dunham Cellars, DeLille Cellars, Apex, Arbor Crest, Bernard Griffin,
Cadence, Cayuse, K Vintners, DiStefano, Andrew Will, Gordon Brothers, Januik,
Kiona, Walla Walla Vintners, Lost Mountain and Matthews Cellars to name just
a few. New producers are cropping up every year.
A relative newcomer to Washington State, acreage for the Syrah grape has increased
substantially in the past few years. Syrah is just one of the Rhone varieties
sparking new interest in Washington State. There are 2000 acres of Syrah planted
in Washington State, and about 400 in Oregon. Over 50 wineries in Washington
State produce Syrah, and about 25 in Oregon.
Oregon Syrah
Oregon’s
latest Syrah offerings include Solena, Abacela
Vineyards, Eola Hills, Penner-Ash, Viento,
Andrew Rich, Duck Pond and Griffin Creek,
Owen Roe and Rockblock among others. More
Syrah will be produced in Oregon next year
as winemakers attempt to grow the grape in
the North Willamette Valley.
In Southern Oregon, Del Rio Vineyards' 40 acres of Syrah grapes are coveted
by 14 different wineries including Domaine Serene, Penner Ash, and Ken Wright's
Tyrus Evans. Ashland Vineyards and Abacela Winery also produce Syrah grapes
in Southern Oregon. Elk Cove recently released their first Syrah and Viognier,
both from Del Rio fruit.
Syrah is a little like jelly beans—there
are many different flavors to choose from.
Some Syrah is mild, fruity and ready to drink
a short time after bottling. These are some
of the most food-friendly wines available.
However, at the other end of the spectrum,
Syrah can be very spicy and heavy and chewy,
and must be paired with food that can stand up to
the spice and heaviness.
Both styles are available in the Northwest.
The best way to discover a preferred style
is to try them. Chances are, you’ll
find something in the wide range of Syrah,
and, there will be plenty to choose from
in the near future. Winemakers are betting
on it.
“McCrea Cellars Producing Southern Rhone blends”
“The Sultan of Syrah Adds to His Bevy of Purple Beauties”
By Christina Kelly
Avalon Editor/Writer
 Doug McCrea |
In early 1990, McCrea convinced a small number of grape growers to plant patches of Syrah in their vineyards. The only person growing Syrah at that time was David Lake, winemaker for Columbia Winery in Woodinville, and it was more for personal use than commercial viability.
For the past 13 years, McCrea produced Rhone blends with Syrah, developing a loyal following for the intense, purplish-black wine. He’s received accolades around the world, high scores and generally sells out whatever he produces.
Endearingly referred to as “the Sultan of Syrah”—Washington State’s version of the California “Rhone Rangers,” McCrea is not content to rest on his winemaking accomplishments. In fact, his ex-wife Susan Neel, who heads marketing and sales operations for the winery, says McCrea isn’t the type of person to sit still while the world goes by.
“He has to be doing something or he gets restless,” said Neel, who with her second husband Bob, run the winery with McCrea and his second wife Kim.
New Blends
In several Eastern Washington vineyards, McCrea planted Grenache, Mouvedre, Counoise, Marsanne and Roussanne—all grapes used to produce a Southern Rhone blend wine. Once again, McCrea is at the forefront of producing new varietals in Washington State. No one is commercially producing Southern Rhone varietals in Washington. However, Abacela Vineyards in Roseberg, OR is producing Grenache and several other Rhone-style blends.
“The locations were carefully chosen because we need the hottest spots in the state to grow these grapes,” said McCrea, who lives near Olympia with his wife and two children, Kevin, 12 and Kalen, 7. “You can produce Syrah in a cooler climate, but you need a lot of heat for Grenache and Mouvedre.”
The two sites selected are at Red Mountain and in the Yakima Valley. Last fall, he brought in Grenache, Mouvedre and Counoise and created a preliminary blend that sits in several barrels. He expects to release that blend in a year, depending on how it develops in the barrel and bottle.
In addition to a red blend, McCrea plans to create a white blend, using Roussanne and Marsanne grapes. McCrea was also one of the first winemakers to produce Viognier in Washington and continues to produce a small quantity. He also makes about 120 cases of Chardonnay each year.
From Music To Wine
Growing up in New Orleans with a strong French background, McCrea developed a taste for French wine. His upbringing steered his tastes in two directions: music (an accomplished jazz musician and teacher) and premium wine (with a preference for Rhone blends).
He met his first wife Susan while attending Stanford University near San Francisco. Susan was also a music major but ended up working in the early high technology industry in marketing. Doug and Susan both worked for Hewlett Packard in the Northwest.
The couple eventually started McCrea Cellars in 1990 when Doug McCrea realized it was what he had to do, after befriending Alex Golitzen from Quilceda Creek and taking some enology courses at UC Davis. Although the marriage failed, the winery thrived and both Doug and Susan realized they had something special with the winery. Susan married Bob Neel in 1994 while Bob was working as a product development engineer. The new couple lived in Colorado, although made frequent trips to Washington to help with the winery.
“I knew I wanted to be associated with the winery, no matter what,” said Susan. “It was clear the winery was too much for Doug and Kim to handle alone. I was trying to do two jobs in Colorado and realized that the winery needed me in Seattle.”
Her husband Bob also assists with McCrea Cellars, supporting Susan in marketing, and helping with some legal and contractual matters while working as an engineering consultant on the side.
Current Releases
All of the new McCrea wines are showing well. In a recent tasting of new releases, there wasn’t a bad one in the bunch. Most of these wines showed a beautiful elegance and knack for pairing well with food. Most of the reds will do well with cellaring for several years.
2000 Cuvee Orleans, Boushey and Ciel du Cheval vineyards (200 cases): This is McCrea’s top-of-the-line blend, using 7 percent Viognier. This wine is held back in barrels an extra year, using the finest grapes to produce a hedonistic, purple-black, gorgeous berry flavored wine in a Cote Rotie style. This wine is clearly for those who can appreciate the refinement of a hand-crafted Syrah blend. Just outstanding, with powerful depth and structure.
2001 Boushey Syrah (175 cases): If there are feminine and masculine characteristics to a wine, the Boushey Syrah is the most feminine. It is complex, with tones of violets and lots of red fruit. Initially there could be a little barnyard aroma that blows off quickly after opening. Boushey is located in the Yakima Valley where the temperature is a bit cooler and the grapes have a little more hang time.
2001 Ciel du Cheval Syrah (175 cases): This is the most powerful of the single-vineyard Syrah produced by McCrea. The vineyard site is one of the hottest in the state, located at Red Mountain. The grapes ripen quicker. This wine has white pepper spice and lots of muscle with rich blackberry and plum flavors.
2001 Yakima Valley Syrah, Ciel du Cheval, Boushey and Elephant Mountain vineyards (300 cases): This is McCrea’s elegant entry level Syrah blend. It has a higher percentage of new oak, with blends from three vineyards. Although entry level for McCrea, this wine is a treat of the terroir from all three of McCrea’s main vineyards. It carries smoky, leather and oak flavors, driven by red and black berry fruits.
2001 Amerique, Ciel du Cheval, Boushey and Elephant Mountain vineyards (187 cases): This wine is made in the leaner, more Australian Shiraz style, with clean, berry-driven flavors. There is oak, both American and French, but the wine has almost a sweet, smooth finish. Good structure that should age well.
2001 Chardonnay, Elerding Vineyard (120 cases): This is the fourth vintage of McCrea Chardonnay. Doug allowed a slow fermentation process, using natural yeast. This wine is ready to drink and quite lovely paired with grilled chicken or steamed clams. There is lemon and butter on the finish.
2001 Viognier, Ciel-du-Cheval and Eledering vineyards (350 cases): McCrea makes a wonderful Viognier to stand alone or to blend with Syrah. The wine was stored in neutral oak and has a wonderful balance of acidity with pear and melon flavors lingering on the palate and a nice dry finish.
